Do you enjoy skiking as much as we do?
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Do you enjoy skiking as much as we do?
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Frequently Asked Questions
In general you can use any solid shoe for skiking. Regarding shoe sizes we focus on common shoes without special stylistic characteristics. Basically you should select your footwear in accordance to the available footplate surface of the skike - look how much space is left for the shoe. Sometimes there will be big surprises. It just depends on the shape of your shoes, too. Recommended are shoes which cover the ankle and have a slim and sporty style and come with a "not too soft" sole - in order to get as close as possible to the real ski feeling. The use of outdoor shoes is of course possible . Most sports shoes are suitable unless the sole at the heel is not flared too far and the sole is not too flexible (e.g. running shoes ). The foot needs grip inside the skike. Many skikers have made good experiences with MTB and outdoor shoes because of its good strength. Cross-country skiing boots are not very suitable because the binding which rests on the skikes' bottom plate disturbs ."
Until today, is has been managed to bring everybody who "live on a large foot" onto skikes ... There are several skike models for particularly large feet. First try to select a different shoe, if this does not work out try to equip the skike with extensions (v07 / Fix models). The skike v8 provides certainly the longest footprint because this model is 40 mm longer than the others.
skiking - also known as Cross Skating- is an endurance- and health sports which traines about 90% of the total muscle mass with gentle impact on on the joints. Skiking is a sport that almost every recreational athletes can perform. The movement is derived from the cross-country skiing skating step. Skiking can absolutely be considered as summer skiing and is a perfect alternative for the cross-country training during the snow-free period.
In general it is advisable to wear always a helmet and gloves. Protectors with collision protection are also recommended for beginners and children. Skillful skikers and cross skaters prefer the Kevlar-coated protectors that skike offers directly in its range.
Ambassador skike instructors can be found on this website within the "Communirty" section. Those coaches offer introductory, beginner and advanced courses. Skikes and other equipment to hire is usually available at the class. Class schedules are displayed online while inscriptions must be executed directly with the instructors. They offer email, phone lines and other means of contact / registration.
Only the center and the lower belt are the same. The top belt has a sewn reflector on the front, a velcro tape for the calf pads, and is about 15 mm shorter than the others. But this belt is still long enough to work as a replacement for a center or lower belt, in case you have to improvise. The reflector and the velcro tape can be taken off quite easily then. In addition, there are softer and harder belts availabe in the online shop spare part section.
Small skikes (v07-s) = If you are less sporty, have a very low body weight, or prefer to skike mainly on smooth surfaces like roads Large skikes (all other models) = If you are sportier and like to go on rough surfaces / cross.
Not at all, this kind of sport is quite affordable. It is pointless to invoke many details. Consider what you would have to pay for a two-week ski vacation : you take these costs and divide this by two weeks. Then take your expenses for a set of skikes and equipment and devide them by 52 weeks. There is not much to add when you see the result of that calculation. Skiking is a sport you can do always and everywhere. Compare with other sports that you may exercise in the free nature, off road, joints friendly, healthy and with lots of fun. So, you will quickly come to fantastic results for skike.
On gravel you should try step by step, going from rough to fine. Concerning higher speeds, gravel is the better choice. But you need more power or a slight slope to "properly" move forward. The majority of beginners - due to their lack of experience and technique - will fail when it comes to a gravelled climb. At the beginning you should not attempt to ride on grass even if it looks an easy thing. Grass surfaces are soft, uneven and confusing and therefore do not offer good condition for smooth rolling. Skikes small wheels will catch more often easier in deeper holes but they roll (as opposed to roller blade wheels) quite unimpressed over smaller branches and stones.
The tires have a rolling resistance which is almost three times as high as that of speed skates. But also the grip is about three times better. Since skikes have chosen the path of better adhesion, this is also accepted by ambitious cross-skaters as safety feature. Therefore 30 to 40 km/h will only be achieved when sprinting. The permanent pace is at the most at 15 to 25 km/h on the road. Skikes are not "Pacemakers" but they are pretty much the same like the pace of ski skating. Wenn considering that one with about 200 watts of power reaches about 16 km/h and 300 watts be enough for 21 km/h, you can approximately assess the enormous power delivery of this sports device . On solid off raod terrain the pace drops about 10%, and on heavy soil you have to deduct around 30%.
Cross-Skating is an excellent alternative or addition to long-distance running. The energy consumption is higher (10-15%) and after a training session with a higher average heart rate as with running the regeneration is much faster. So, one can set quite exceptional training stimuli without getting in overtraining. Through the active and passive stabilization work, done in the joints, they are almost trained like at the physiotherapist against false loads. You can feel then that the musculoskeletal system already is subjectively "stable". Also ball athletes report more stable joints since they have started to use skike.
As abdominal- and back-training Cross Skating is almost not to beat anyway. The pace is (if the technique is mastered) on asphalt around 15-30 % higher than that of equally strong long-distance runners. In light terrain (park paths) one is ideally minimally faster, in moderate to difficult terrain a bit until significantly (15-40 %) slower than a distance runner.
They say with Nordic walking the energy consumption is supposed to be 40% higher than for the hiking because of the use of poles. What about this?
Well formulated "supposedly". It is because the arms have about 20 % of the muscle mass of the legs, consume up to 20 % more energy. You could - but only if you do not drag the poles listless behind and if you're already athletic. But who is doing Nordic Walking? People who want to make a moderate rehabilitation training (must?) at which they consume energy only moderately over time, so that the fat metabolism is trained. The supposed 40% increase in energy consumption would increase the pulse of around 15 beats what a beginner does not stand.
Skiking increases the energy consumption compared with inline skating cycling, swimming and running. Squash often is indicated as the sport with the highest energy consumption which is maybe just a legend. Concerning Cross-Skating, you can move in a very moderate way with low energy turnover or with full power.By doing so, you will consume 5 to 10%, with some practice even up to 15% more energy per hour than running, because skiking corresponds to the cross-country strain - the sport with the highest oxygen conversion .
But 5 to 15 % is not a spectacular superlative and certainly not a great selling point for skikes. It shows, however, that you can cover a very wide range of performance with skikes from rehab athletes to elite athletes . The beginner has indeed rather the problem of motivation. If skiking is fun , he has won against his inner skunk. In the high-performance range the increased energy consumption will become more an issue.
I don't get real pressure on my brakes although I have adjusted the brake quite far back to reach the brake pressure point as early as possible. I still have to completely straighten the legs for braking. What can I do?
Straighting legs completely should be avoided because then you can quickly lose control of the skike. Unfortunately tall people or people with relatively thin calves reach the limit of adjustment already. They should try the following options (depending on the model) :
V07-120 - put the heal foot plate at the very end on the skike, 3mm distance to the rear wheel will be sufficient vX/PLUS/LIFT/FIX-Adjust the heal belt so that the foot is positioned 1 cm in front of the rear wheel
Try using shoes in which the insole behind the heel is as short as possible so does not have a large attenuation wedge or an extended rearward "spoiler". Wear longer and thicker socks, turn them inside out, even double, in the calf area in order to make the calf "thicker".
As a last possibility, you can stick another calf pad on the inside of the calf pad to achieve the same effect.
The most obvious is the setting of the brake arms. Try setting them at the same position. Sometimes there are small tolerances on the individual skikes that can result in a marginal different setting angle. For newer models : control setting of the heel straps For previous models : the heel foot plates should have equal distances from the rear. The sole mold (heel) has an effect on the pressure point of the brake. The heels of the shoes should be booth in the back of the two heel cups Also the diameter (including socks and trouser leg) and the shape of the lower leg causes early or late operation of the brake One should be able to brake with two legs and use both brakes at every time
You have to learn to brake, this is a process. You can dose the brakes better when the knees remain slightly bent. If they are involuntarily bent too much one can hardly dose during braking and takes on an unsafe posture. Downhill races will become less scary when you know how to dose the brake. Practicing on harmless downhill is very useful. If you have used the brakes longer than 20-30 seconds you should give the brake pads a cooling-off period.
The braking effect was measured officially under dry conditions at 6.5 m/s². In the Pro7 TV Galileo Show a full stop from 30 km/h a braking distance of about 8 m has been confirmed. On youtube.com you can watch some videos showing skikes while braking. When it starts to rain there is a liquid film which must be swipped off by the brakes first, like with rim brakes. Wet leaves do not really interfere, namely in practice less to zero. In general, the skike braking performance may be somewhat less, but still sufficient. With that in mind, you will hardly experience situations where you cannot brake in time under wet conditions.
Reasonably "Yes" because then you reach the maximum braking performace. One-legged braking is the exception when facing breakdowns, defects or near-falls, which can surprisingly often be prevented by (more or less spectacular) one-legged braking actions.
Brake as usual, there is no difference in the action. Of course, the stopping distance downhill will be longer, keep that in mind. Collect some braking practice before performing your first downhill run.
Do they harm the tires?The tires will not "wiped out" by intact brake metal plates in any way. Actually the brake pads wear faster than the tire rubber, provided you do not execute one rear-wheel-lock braking after another. The brake plates hold on pure road usage during dryness about 2,500 to 4,000 km. In wet mud, however, only about 400 to 700 km. Since many skikers perform "mixed mode", the average lifetime will be just under 2000 km in flat terrain.
Tubes are wear parts. A crucial factor for tube damages is too less air pressure, faulty valves or damages resulting from former ride with too less pressure. Skikes will be delivered with pumped up tires. However, due to storage periods and transportation times the air pressure has to be checked and adjusted before the first use. If the tube is airless before the first use and cannot be inflated or loses the air immediately, first repeat to inflate the tube one more time to make sure the valve is not stucked. If the air still escapes, unmount the valve and check if the valve has a leak. This is easy to do by blowing in. If the valve is dense the faulty part must be the tube.
Yes, these little wheels have to withstand a much higher load at a serious smaller volume of air than for example a bicycle tire. As a rule of thumb, a loss of about 1 -2 BAR or 15-30 PSI per week are considered to be completely normal. The air diffuses through the tube and tire to the outside just as a car tire does (which has 70 times the amount of air). With skike tires is just more obvoius because there is much less air available to fill the tire. It is therefore advisable to check the tire pressure from time to time, at least before every trip. Those who frequently skike are aware of this and have integrated this check as a kind of routine in each of their tours. Those who neglect this fact risk tube damage.
The skike tubes are made of a particularly resistant rubber. This material can only be dissolved with special glues and so also guarantees a faultless and safe compound of the patch with the tube. But it's no guarantee. Since these very small tubes are exposed to an above-average level of workload replacing might be the smarter and better solution. Repairing tubes is relatively complicated while a new tube assures a long and trouble-free use.
As a rule, no. Often riding with too less air pressure causes that the tube slips onto the bed of the rim. Make sure there is sufficient air pressure 90 to 100 PSI, watch the sitting of the tire on the rim, even slight twistings are an early warning of this problem. Intervention in time can prevent damage to the tube. Once there occurs a displacement of the tire you should first drain completely the air, set everything in correct position and then inflate again. Please read the notes in the user's manual, too.
From a technical point of view this is possible and working. However, different tires do also have different weights and measures. This may cause problems in balance and has an influence to the directional stability. Therefore it is always recommended to ride skikes with equal tires. Ideally all 4 tires should be replaced at the same time to ensure an optimal handling. Very worn tires will involuntarily cause further demage to the tubes. Therefore they should be replaced in time and not be driven to the very end. A criss-cross change of wheels ensures a longer operating life.
Basically a check up of the directional stability makes sense every 500 km. During the change of wheels an adjustment of the directional stability should be performed, too. Convulsions (especially in rough terrain) and impacts, even only one-sided, are mainly affecting the wheels. Step by step this causes a disfunction of the directional stability.
This depends primarily on the workload and the terrain where you drive. Properly used, the brake has just surprisingly little effect on tires. Inadequate tire pressure is a crucial factor for wear and breakdown susceptibility. The recommended air pressure of approx. 100PSI should always be respected. With a body weight of more than 90 kg it is even better to pump up to 110 PSI. If one regards all the carefully described instructions of the owner's manual, a milage of around 2000 km is quite common.
Each new bearing needs to be weared in first. Thereby the bearing grease reaches its optimum viscosity, the balls grind on and finally the bearing run smoothly. It might take up to about 100-150 km until this state is reached. In case the bearing still runs stiff then, a production fault could be the reason. In this case, please contact the retailer of your confidence.
First to mention, the use of non-original skike spare parts results in loss of warranty. In addition, some bearings may equal dimensionally but are not conform with with axle components of skike ball bearings. Also keep in mind that skike bushings are precisely matched to the wheel and axle, a construction feature that not everybody can see at first glance. Thus, it is up to you to try different bearings - while we recommend to stay with the original parts. They are available through skike retailers.
The durability of skike ball bearings mainly depends on care and maintenance of your skikes. Strain, terrain, dust and water are other influences to it. Akikes should be regularly cleaned thoroughly. Soilings, dust and dirt may reduce drastically the lifetime of ball bearings. With proper use and care a mileage up to 6000 km is average.
Basically, the use of non-original skike parts results in loss of warranty. Skikes were designed for off-road use in the first place. Exactly for this purpose skikes have been equipped with bearings having splash protection. The splash guard is a plastic disk that is located in front of the balls and prevents the penetration of water. This disc is subject to friction of the balls. Speed bearings does not have such friction because they are not splashproof, i.e. do not have the disc. Therefore they run easier. But, to our experience and knowledge, these differences are so marginal that there is not really a noticeable effect.
Carbon poles are recommended to use while skiking since this material has the necessary stiffness to absorb the forces generated from the movement. The length should be 90% of the body size. (Formula to calculate the pole length : Body height in cm x 0.9). Keep in mind that carbon poles are not very flexible, thus, they do not bend much and might break if too overstretched. Aluminum poles are not suitable for skiking.
skike provides 3 different versatile model types of the pole4 series: Carbon pole 30%, 2-piece, adjustable from 115-160 cm Carbon pole 100%, 3-piece, adjustable from 145-170 cm Carbon pole 100%, 2-piece, adjustable from 125-150 cm/145-170 cm / 145-170 cm
Yes, unfortunately it is inevitable if you got stuck in the wrong spot. In this case the the leverage of the pole simply "uproots" the tip from its socket. If it happens, you should not to mess around a long time trying to repair it. Simply mount a new tip - with pole4 tips just a matter of seconds - first unscrew the old plastic housing of the tip clockwise and then apply the new one. Caution : make sure to mount that new tip until it really stops at the end and not just half way. If this is not done properly there is a risk that it breaks off soon again. Besides, it is recommended to use open rubber pads that can be put over the tips, especially on challenging routes. Those pads provide more surface and prevent the metal tip from penetrating the terrain too deep.
Select your desired length, then turning both shafts against each other until it is firmly stuck. Firm, but not too hard - the skike locking mechanism holds perfectly at any load. Prevent overtightening and do not use too much force while turning. Overtightening may cause damage to the shaft.